The Duckmeister wrote:That's right on the limit. You should try to avoid using that gear anyway, but prolonged use could bend the derailleur. To be safe, if the chain isn't too worn you can add a pair of links (one each inner & outer), or if it's due for replacement, change the chain & make it two links longer.
SRAM's recommended method of measuring chain is to wrap it over big ring/big sprocket, but not through the derailleur, then add two links, one of which is the joining link. Doing it that way doesn't allow you to go up to a bigger sprocket down the track.
My preferred method is to set the chain on small ring/small sprocket & through the derailleur, where the derailleur is at it's slackest, then pull enogh tension so there is a gap of 5-10mm between the top jockey wheel (which at this angle is forward of rather than above the lower) and the free span of chain below it. Cut the excess chain from the end in your left hand. Doing it this way will ensure there's enough chain length for the widest range of gears that your RD is designed to manage, meaning you can go to a larger sprocket in the future.
The Duckmeister wrote:No need to swap the cassette back, just avoid using that 53-28 gear combination.
Snuffy wrote:For the record (even though in this case, we're talking road), Ducky's method works, but there's merit in the SRAM approach when setting up a bike for off road use. If you're likely to be riding particularly rough trails (MTB) or likely to throw the bike around a bit (CX), then the SRAM method reduces chain slack which can stop chain stay slap and reduce the chance of dropping a chain. It's also pretty reasonable if you're already using the largest cassette that a RD can handle.
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