If anything the 50s would be more likely to bend, for two reasons: 1) the compact spider required for the smaller inner ring that's paired with the 50 means the rim of the ring is further away from the bolts than a 53 on a standard crank, and 2) the bigger difference between the two rings compared to a standard means there's more side loading on the big ring during an upshift. Then factor in that SRAM compacts tend to be more troublesome than others and you've got a greater than usual chance of bending the ring.
As a setup guide, there should only be about 1mm gap between the bottom edge of the outer plate of the FD and the tips of the tallest teeth (the teeth on big chainrings are not all the same height; some are smaller than others to create gaps for the chain to slip through during shifting, both up and down). Secondly, when on the big ring and the smallest sprocket - where the chainline is its furthest outboard - there should only be the barest gap between the side of the chain and the outer plate of the FD. Any more on both angles and the chain can overshift off the side as it makes the most of those lower-profile shifting teeth. SRAM compacts tend to be a bit finnicky because the big ring isn't as aggressively ramped as most others, so it doesn't pick the chain up as smoothly, and chuck a Red derailleur with its flexy titanium cage into the mix and it has the potential to turn downright awful.
Looking at another point raised since I was last here at lunchtime, the front end is a lot more tolerant of mixing new & old rings & chains than the back end. The bigger gears spread the load over a much greater area than at the back, so if you chuck a new component in the mix, the other bit has to be really seriously worn to cause problems.
And as I stated before, the way the chain has dropped while NOT shifting is a clear indication of at least one bent tooth, probably more.
Just ride the bloody thing and enjoy yourself!