The Duckmeister wrote:If you're using a standard screw-on-freewheel hub, you don't need a lockring because the sprocket is threaded on in such a way that it tightens under drive load. You need to make sure you get sprockets with the thread the right way because....
On a proper track hub, the thread for the drive sprocket is a left hander (which would unscrew under load without a lock ring), but the lockring is on a smaller diameter right hand thread - which tightens under drag from the drive sprocket, thus preventing the sprocket actually unwinding. This arrangement makes swapping gears a lot easier as they're not cranked down super tight.
You can't just lock a freewheel.
Unless you use a welder....
SpanishMan wrote:I have a standard 700c rear wheel with a screw-on threaded hub, which takes a standard freewheel cog or cassette.
I looked closely at a fixie today on the street and the cog was tightened by a lock ring but I could not tell if the hub was especially made for it or if the lock ring simply tightens the fixie cog just like a nut would tighten a bolt. Surely the later would suffice? I mean you would need an incredible amount of force to accidentally unscrew both cog and lockring at the same time.
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