As a reference - the bike I'm referring to mostly in this post is my commuter bike - over the same period, I do 3-4 times as many km as you're referring to, the bike is rather heavy (20kg on a skinny day), I ride in all weather, I have a bad tendency to ride in far too big a gear, I've been known to do the odd cyclocross race on this bike and it's been up Mt Donna Buang in the snow.
Basically, it gets abused.
Alan3570 wrote:Thought I'd take advantage of the 12 month free servicing offered to me on purchase of the bike as I noticed the back discs were noisy and gears needed adjusting. Got the service done for 20 bucks, it was the price of the disc pads the rear required.
Gear adjustment is a couple of minutes of fettling. If you're in any way mechanically minded, it's something you should be able to easily learn for yourself.
Noisy disc brakes could be anything from contamination on the pads, bent rotors, worn out pads or misaligned brakes. New pads could just be your mechanic's very quick and very easy way to deal with some of those problems and is not always entirely necessary.
Suggest you just keep an eye on the pads yourself - it's pretty easy to do. Just look at the pads
in the brake caliper and see if how close the pads are to the spring (top left) - if there's still meat on the pads, you're fine. If your brakes are just a bit noisy, but still stopping you adequately, I'd personally just ignore it.
Honestly, 2000 km life out of a set of pads seems short - if I was changing brake pads at 2000km, I'd be spending a small fortune on brake pads every year. Unless of course you drag your rear brake a lot - in which case, you might just have worn out your pads that fast. Before anyone gets clever and mentions resin brake pads, I run resin pads and new pads are a once a year thing if that.
Alan3570 wrote:When I dropped the bike off it had done 2300 Klm's, I was surprised it needed pads and then the mechanic tested the wear on the chain and said it was 80% worn! He said you always changed the chain and cassette together.
This is going to enter the realm of a religious debate, but I call bollocks to a lot of the "knowledge" about chains, lube and drivetrain wear.
A few completely unscientific, general statements of opinion and experience. People will probably refute some of these statements.....
- Chain lube is good for two things - stopping noise and attracting dirt/grit.
- Oily dirt and grit is useful for wearing down your drivetrain.
- I find that a lot of chains come out of the packet reading at least 50% wear on my Park Chain Wear tool
- I tend to buy whatever chain is cheap
- Chain wear measuring tools are good for one thing - selling more chains
- I use only just enough lube on my chain so that the noise doesn't drive me insane
- I still have the same bottle of Prolink
- My last chain lasted 6,580.5 km on stuff all lube and the odd wipe down after a wet ride
- I only replaced that chain because of a run in with a stick, causing a bent plate. Removed a link and carried on for a while, but I got sick of not being able to access certain gears with the short chain.
- The new chain has gone on just fine and my bike continues to shift gears just fine.
*dons flame retardant suit*